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Board Game · Racing Game

Play Halma Online — Free, No Sign-Up

Nineteen pieces each, opposite corners of a sixteen-by-sixteen board. Step one square, or chain jumps clear across it — nothing is ever captured, and the first camp to swap places wins.

Sixteen by sixteen squares. Nineteen pieces a side, clustered in opposite corners. Get all nineteen into the far corner before your opponent does the same to yours — that is the whole of it, and the one rule worth learning properly is the jump.

How to play Halma

Sixteen by sixteen squares, nineteen pieces a side, opposite corners. Move exactly one piece each turn, and be first to swap places with your opponent.

Moving: step or jump

  • Step — one square, in any of the eight directions, to an empty neighbour. This ends your turn.
  • Jump — over any piece, yours or the opponent's, into the empty square directly beyond it. Nothing is ever captured or removed; the jumped piece stays exactly where it was. Land, and if another jump is available from there, take it too — any number in a row, your choice when to stop.

How do you win at Halma?

By filling every one of the nineteen squares of the camp diagonally opposite yours with your own pieces. Your own camp does not have to be empty — only the far one has to be full — but leaving pieces at home too long just gets in their own way: the earlier they clear their own camp, the sooner the rest can step and jump through it.

How many pieces does Halma start with?

A sixteen by sixteen Halma board with nineteen amber pieces clustered in the top-left corner and nineteen blue pieces in the bottom-right corner, each in a triangular camp
Both camps at the start — nineteen pieces each, the traditional 1-2-3-4-5-4 formation, in opposite corners.

Nineteen a side, in the traditional 1-2-3-4-5-4 camp: five whole rows out from the corner, growing 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 — then a sixth row of only 4, the middle four squares of what would otherwise be a row of 6. That is the number everyone quotes, and we checked it against the board itself rather than trusting the count: written out by board row instead of by diagonal, it comes to 5, 5, 4, 3, 2 squares, left-aligned against the corner. Both ways of slicing it land on the same nineteen squares.

Controls on this board

Click a piece — every square it can reach this turn lights up, step and jump destinations both, worked out in full before you choose. Click one of those squares and the whole move happens at once, however many jumps it took to get there. Play the computer at three levels, pass the device for two players in the same room, or open a table and send the code to play a friend online, with a chat window built in.

Halma strategy: how far can one jump chain reach?

A Halma board with one amber piece at the corner and seven blue pieces lined up along the diagonal, with green rings on the seven squares between them showing where a single jump chain can land
Seven pieces along a diagonal, one piece to jump them — seven jumps, one turn, landing a single square short of the far corner.

Walking corner to corner one step at a time takes fifteen turns — that is just the king-move distance across the board. Line seven pieces up along the diagonal instead, and the piece at the corner can jump all seven in a single turn, landing seven squares out, one short of the corner itself. That is not a rule of thumb; it is the actual output of this page's own move generator, run against exactly that position.

It is also the whole strategic idea of Halma in one picture. Walking is slow. A line of pieces to jump over — your own included, since nothing is ever captured — is what actually wins the race. Beginners tend to walk their whole army forward one square at a time; the faster habit is building a diagonal early and using it as a ladder for everybody else.

Why can a losing player refuse to finish a Halma game?

The win condition only checks the opponent's camp. Nothing in the rule requires you to empty your own. A player who is clearly beaten can simply leave one piece sitting at home forever, and since the win condition can then never be satisfied for that one square, the game has no forced ending.

This is a real, documented quirk of Halma — not something specific to this page — usually discussed under the name spoiling strategy. We play the rule exactly as printed rather than patch it with a house rule of our own; a "no sitting still" clause would make this a slightly different game from the one everybody else is playing. In practice it essentially never comes up: there is nothing to gain from refusing a game you have already lost.

Playing Halma against the computer

How do the three computer levels differ?

In how much of the board the computer bothers to think about — not in some unbeatable fixed depth, the same design as the Reversi opponent on this site. Every legal move is scored by a simple rule — how much closer does this get each piece to its target corner — and the levels differ in how many of the best-looking candidates get a second look at the reply, and how often a merely good move gets played instead of insisting on the best one.

How long does a game of Halma take?

We played each level against itself to see how long a real game actually runs: 200 to 300 plies to fill a camp, which comes to roughly 100 to 150 moves a side. Halma is a longer game than most of what is on this site by design — closer to an hour of real play between two people than a quick round — and the computer opponent runs at that same pace rather than a sped-up one.

Who invented Halma?

George Howard Monks, an American thoracic surgeon at Harvard Medical School, put the game together in 1883 or 1884 as a simplification of an earlier English game called Hoppity, from 1854.

Yes, but backwards from how most people assume: Chinese Checkers is the descendant, not the ancestor. It was published in Germany in 1892 as Stern-Halma — star Halma — on a six-pointed star board rather than Halma's square one, and only picked up its present, misleading English name once it reached American toy shops decades later. It has no real connection to China, and none to draughts.

If you like this one

  • Peg Solitaire — jumps with the opposite purpose: there, every jump removes a piece; here, none ever leaves the board
  • Fox and Geese — the same orthogonal jump, used to hunt instead of to race
  • Surakarta — captures without a single jump at all, travelling around loops in the board's corners instead

The Windows connection

If you remember this board from a beige desktop rather than a box, the board games that came with Windows is the piece for you — which ones shipped, which were dropped, and what happened to them.

Frequently asked questions

+ How do you play Halma?

Sixteen by sixteen squares. Each player's nineteen pieces start clustered in one corner. On your turn, move exactly one piece: either a single step to an adjacent empty square, in any of the eight directions, which ends your turn — or a chain of one or more jumps, over any piece, yours or the opponent's, into the empty square directly beyond it. Nothing is ever captured; a jumped piece stays exactly where it was. Be first to fill every one of the nineteen squares of the far camp — the opponent's starting corner — with your own pieces.

+ How many pieces does each player start with, and where?

Nineteen, in the traditional 1-2-3-4-5-4 camp: five whole diagonal rows out from the corner, plus the middle four squares of the sixth. Written out by board row instead of by diagonal it comes to 5, 5, 4, 3, 2 squares, left-aligned against the corner — we checked both ways of counting it land on the same nineteen squares before building the board.

+ Can a jump chain really cross most of the board in one turn?

Yes, and we measured rather than guessed at it. Line seven pieces up along a diagonal and a piece at the corner can jump all seven in one turn — seven jumps, one per piece, landing seven squares from where it started, a single square short of the far corner. Walking there one step at a time would take fifteen turns; a diagonal of pieces to jump over is what the chain rule is for.

+ Who invented Halma?

George Howard Monks, an American thoracic surgeon at Harvard Medical School, in 1883 or 1884. He built it as a simplification of an earlier English game called Hoppity, from 1854. Chinese Checkers is a later descendant, not an ancestor: it was published in Germany in 1892 as Stern-Halma — 'star Halma' — on a six-pointed star board instead of a square one, and picked up its misleading English name only when it reached American toy shops decades later. It has nothing to do with China and nothing to do with draughts.

+ Why does the losing side sometimes never actually lose?

Because the official rule only checks whether the opponent's camp is full of your pieces — it says nothing about your own. A player who is clearly losing can simply refuse to move the last piece sitting in their own home camp, and since that square can then never be filled by the other side, the game can be denied forever. This is a documented quirk of Halma, discussed under names like the 'spoiling strategy,' and it is not something we patched: we play the rule exactly as written, on the view that inventing our own house rule would make this page's Halma a slightly different game from the one everyone else plays. In practice nobody actually plays this way — there is nothing to gain from refusing a game you have already lost — so it is worth knowing about, not worth worrying about.

+ How do the three computer levels differ?

In how much they consider, not in some fixed unbeatable formula — the same approach we use for the Reversi opponent. Every legal move is scored by a simple heuristic, each piece's straight-line distance to its target corner; the levels then differ in how many of the best-looking moves get a second, one-ply-deeper look, and how often a merely decent move is played instead of the exact best one. Easy looks at four candidates and plays a near-best move fairly often; Hard looks at two dozen and rarely deviates from the top choice.

+ How long does a game actually take?

Longer than most games on this site — Halma is a marathon by design, not a quick round. We played the levels against themselves and measured 200 to 300 plies to fill a camp, which is roughly 100 to 150 moves each. That matches what is generally said about human games too: anywhere from ten minutes to well over an hour, depending on how efficiently both sides set up jump chains instead of walking.

+ Can I play Halma with a friend online?

Yes. Choose 'With a friend online' below the board and press Open a table. You get a four-character code; send it to your friend, they type it in and press Join. There is a chat window built in, and neither of you needs an account or a download.

+ Is it free?

Yes, and there is no sign-up, for the online tables either. Nothing about a solo or hotseat game is saved anywhere; close the tab and start fresh next time.

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